The Well-Tempered Timpani
By Richard K. Jones

The contents of this page are the presentation notes from a lecture presented at the
Nebraska Chapter P.A.S. Day of Percussion in April of 2006.
An interactive WEBook version, which will explore each topic in depth,
is projected for completion in the winter of 2008.
For more information please contact:
rkj@nebrwesleyan.edu

Part I:
The Search for the Missing Fundamental
or
Zen and the Art of Fitting a Round Peg into a Square Hole

The Competition

With all non-percussion instruments in today's modern orchestra (strings, brasses and winds), we hear various pitches according to whether a string or column of air is vibrating as a unit through its whole length or in particular fractions of it. The vibration along the whole length of a string or column of air gives the lowest or fundamental tone. The vibrations taking place at various fractions of the length produce higher pitches called harmonics or upper partials. The stationary points along a string or column of air (i.e., where the waves cancel each other out) are called nodes or nodal points.

In mathematical terms, the frequency of each harmonic is in inverse proportion to the size of the fraction. This means that the vibration of equal halves of a string or a column of air produces double the frequency of the whole (and thus sounds an octave higher), the vibration of equal thirds triples the frequency (and therefore sounds an octave and a fifth higher than the fundamental note) and so on. The range of notes produces what is called the harmonic series or overtone series.

Use the chart below to see what the harmonic series looks like when it is notated and to hear what the individual partials sound like.

 

A Harmonic Series Written as Notes
chart courteous Reginald Bain

Show partials:
Fig. 1
Play partials.
1-12
8-20
16-24
The first 20 partials of a harmonic series for the fundamental pitch C2 (ca. 65.4 Hz.) expressed in traditional musical staff notation with frequency multiples indicated between the staves. The - and + symbols indicate that the notated pitch is significantly lower or higher, respectively, than the same pitch on a modern piano.

Note that some of the partials are slightly out of tune with our
Western tuning scales. These notes are indicated with a - or + .


What are consider to be musical notes are sounds that have a particular pitch. The pitch of a musical sound depends on the fundamental frequency of that sound. The higher the frequency and shorter the wavelength of the sound waves, the higher the pitch is.

Frequency and Pitch
graphics courtesy of Catherine Schmidt-Jones



Figure 1: The higher the frequency, the higher the note sounds.

What are consider to be musical sounds generally don't have just one frequency. Sounds that have only one frequency are not at all interesting or pleasing to listen to. They have no musical color or timbre. Conversely, sounds that have too many frequencies, like the sound of a strong wind storm with rain may be interesting and even pleasant to listen to, but these sounds don't have a particular pitch, so they usually aren't considered musical notes.

When someone sings a note or plays a note on an instrument, a very particular set of frequencies is heard. Visualize each note that is sung or that is played on an instrument as a smooth mixture of many different pitches. These different pitches are called overtones or partials and are preferably harmonic, but they can be either harmonic or non-harmonic. They are generally blended together so well that you do not hear them as separate notes at all. Instead, the overtones or partial give the note its color or timbre. Notes which have many non-harmonic overtones are said to create inharmonicity. In music, inharmonicity is the degree to which the frequencies of the overtones of a fundamental differ from whole-number multiples of the fundamental's frequency. These inharmonic (non-harmonic) overtones are often distinguished from harmonic overtones (whole-number multiples) by calling them partials, though partial may also be used to refer to both. Whether we hear a sound as pitched or unpitched depends partly on the overtones of that sound. The more inharmonic a sound is, the less definite it becomes in pitch. Many percussion instruments such as cymbals, tam-tams, and drums create complex and inharmonic sounds. Most modern professional-quality wind, brass and string instruments are designed to limit inharmonicity as much as possible.

What is the sound color or timbre? If an oboe plays a middle C and then a clarinet plays the same note at the same loudness as the oboe, it is still easy to tell the two notes apart, because an oboe sounds different from a clarinet. This difference in the sounds is the color, or timbre, of the notes, which is based on each instrument's own unique harmonic recipe. A note's harmonic recipe is its number of overtones or partials (harmonic and non-harmonic) and their amplitude proportion relative to the fundamental.

 

Harmonic Vibrating Modes of a String or Column of Air

 

Harmonic Series Wavelengths and Frequencies



The second harmonic partial has half the wavelength and twice the frequency of the first. The third harmonic partial has one-third the wavelength and three times the frequency of the first. The fourth harmonic partial has one-quarter the wavelength and four times the frequency of the first, and so on. Notice that the fourth harmonic partial is also twice the frequency of the second harmonic, and the sixth harmonic partial is also twice the frequency of the third harmonic partial.

 

 


So, what does all of this have to do with timpani?

Not much actually, but therein lies the problem of fitting
the round peg into the square hole.

Vibrating circular membranes (i.e. a timpani head) do not vibrate with a harmonic series
yet they do have an overtone series, it is just not harmonic.

Furthermore, the fundamental of a vibrating circular membrane
is not very resonant and doesn't produce a pleasant sound.

Let's begin by investigating the acoustic properties of timpani.



Acoustic Properties of Timpani
Information and charts courtesy of Georgia State University
HyperPhysics


• A timpano has a round head stretched over a sealed enclosure. The tension may be altered by means of a foot pedal which actuates tensioning elements tightening the head. The pedal connects to the lugs which control the tension in the membrane.

OK. Got that.

• The round head of a timpano (membrane) can vibrate in a large number of vibrational modes. The fundamental is not preferred; it is a dampened, muffled sound and does not produce as pleasing a sound as when the head is struck a few inches from the rim. At this point, the timpano's fundamental mode is not excited.

Hmmm?

• The player chooses a striking point which will emphasize the preferred modes of the circular membrane. The resulting sounded frequencies are further influenced by the enclosed air cavity.

 


So, what does all of this mean?

If a timpano's fundamental is dampened,
from where does the sound come?

What are these "preferred modes"?

All excellent questions; first we must take a look
at some of the vibrational modes of an
ideal circular membrane.

An ideal circular membrane may defined as an absolutely round membrane, infinitely thin, perfectly flexible, completely homogeneous, evenly and uniformly tensioned where the outer circular edge of the membrane constitutes a fixed boundary condition in an "in vacuo" state (in a vacuum). This type of membrane exists in theory only. For a vibrating timpani head, the conditions are somewhat different, but the mode shapes are almost the same as those of the ideal circular membrane.


12 Initial Vibrational Modes
of an Ideal Circular Membrane
Information and chart courtesy of Georgia State University
HyperPhysics

Ideal Circular Membrane Modes



Compare the ratios (f1 1.59f1 etc.)of some of the initial modes of
an ideal circular membrane in the chart above
to the ratios in the harmonic overtone series in the chart below.

Don't worry about the numbers is red yet.

Do you see a difference?

The harmonic series ratios are simple integers (or whole number
multiples) times the fundamental frequency;
the ideal circular membrane ratios are not simple integers
(or whole numbers multiples),they are decimal numbers.



Frequency ratios for the first twelve partials of the harmonic series and the corresponding interval names for the notes above the fundamental.

f1
=
1
Fundamental
1st partial
2f1
=
2
Octave
2nd Partial/Overtone 1
3f1
=
3
Octave + Perfect Fifth
3rd Partial/Overtone 2
4f1
=
4
2 Octaves
4th Partial/Overtone 3
5f1
=
5
2 Octaves + Major Third
5th Partial/Overtone 4
6f1
=
6
2 Octaves + Perfect Fifth
6th Partial/Overtone 5
7f1
=
7
2 Octaves + Minor Seventh
7th Partial/Overtone 6
8f1
=
8
3 Octaves
8th Partial/Overtone 7
9f1
=
9
3 Octaves + Major Second
9th Partial/Overtone 8
10f1
=
10
3 Octaves + Major Third
10th Partial/Overtone 9
11f1
=
11
3 Octaves + Augmented Fourth
11th Partial/Overtone 10
12f1
=
12
3 Octaves + Perfect Fifth
12th Partial/Overtone 11



Let's listen to what each of the partial series sounds like.
Both series will begin on C2 (ca. 65.4 Hz.)

First, the first twelve partials of the harmonic series:

Now, the initial twelve modes of an ideal circular membrane:


Do you hear a difference?


Since circular membranes are two-dimensional, they can vibrate
in many modes simultaneously and most of these modes are not harmonic;
that is the frequency of higher modes are not simple integers times the fundamental frequency as is found in the harmonic series.

Furthermore, since it is vibrating in two dimensions, it has two
sets of nodal points; nodal circles and nodal diameters.

Nodal points are points of no vibration. The first nodal point (found in mode(0 1)) will always occur where the bearing edge of the bowl touches the head.
In the customary mode designation, the first number gives the number of
diametric (radial) modes, and the second the number of circular modes.

As we move forward, be sure to differentiate between modes and nodes.
Modes are the patterns of the vibration and nodes are the
points of no vibration which shape the patterns.

The next section will give us a detailed look at
modes and nodes. Pay attention to the numbers in red.


Vibrational Modes of a Ideal Circular Membrane

Information and animation courtesy of  Dr. Dan Russell, Kettering University

NOTE: in the following descriptions of the mode shapes of a *ideal circular membrane, the nomenclature for labeling the modes is (d,c) where d is the number of nodal diameters and c is the number of nodal circles (also known as diametric and concentric modes). *An ideal circular membrane may defined as a absolutely round membrane, infinitely thin, perfectly flexible, completely homogeneous, evenly and uniformly tensioned where the outer circular edge of the membrane constitutes a fixed boundary condition in an "in vacuo" state (in a vacuum). This type of membrane exists in theory only.

The (0,1) Mode

The animated gif at left shows the fundamental mode shape of a vibrating circular membrane. The mode number is designated as (0,1) since there are no nodal diameters, but one circular node (the outside edge). Remember that a node is a point (or line) on a structure that does not move while the rest of the structure is vibrating. The (0,1) mode of a drum, such as a timpano, is excited when the drum head is struck at its center. When vibrating in this mode the membrane acts much like a monopole source, which radiates sound very effectively. Since it radiates sound so well when vibrating in this manner, the membrane quickly transfers its vibrational energy into radiated sound energy and the vibration dies away. The short duration (fraction of a second) of the (0,1) mode means that this mode does not contribute greatly to the musical tone quality of a drum. In fact, when struck at the center, a timpano, or other large drums, produces a "thump" which decays quickly and has no definite pitch.

The (1,1) Mode

The next mode is the (1,1) mode, which has one nodal diameter and one circular node (the outside edge). The exact location of the nodal diameter depends on the homogeneity of the membrane and the initial conditions when the vibration starts. The frequency of the (1,1) mode is 1.593 times the frequency of the (0,1) mode. When vibrating in the (1,1) mode a circular membrane acts much like a dipole source; instead of pushing air away from the membrane like the (0,1) mode does, in the (1,1) mode one half of the membrane pushes air up while the other half sucks air down, resulting in air being pushed back and forth from side to side. As a result, the (1,1) mode radiates sound less effectively than the (0,1) mode, which means that it does not transfer its vibrational energy into radiated sound energy as quickly as the (0,1) mode and therefore the (1,1) mode takes longer to decay. Because the (1,1) mode "rings" for a while, it contributes to the musical sound or pitch of a drum. When timpani, or other large drums, are struck somewhere between the center and outer edge, the sound has a definite pitch which lingers for a several seconds.

The (2,1) Mode

The third mode of a circular membrane is the (2,1) mode, which has two nodal diameters (at right angles to each other) and one nodal circle (the outside edge). The exact locations of the nodal diameters depend on the homogeneity of the membrane and the initial conditions when the vibration starts. The frequency of the (2,1) mode is 2.135 times the frequency of the (0,1) mode. When vibrating in the (2,1) mode a circular membrane acts much like a quadrupole source, which is worse at radiating sound than the (1,1) dipole mode and much less effective at radiating sound than the (0,1) monopole mode. This means that the (2,1) transfers its vibrational energy into radiated sound energy much more slowly than the (1,1) and (0,1) modes and therefore takes longer to decay, and thus contributes to the musical pitch of a drum. In fact, the modes which most significantly determine the tone quality of a tympani drum are the (1,1), (2,1), (3,1), (4,1), and (5,1) modes.

The (0,2) Mode

The (0,2) mode, shown at right does not have any diameter nodes, but has two circular nodes - one at the outside edge and one at a distance of 0.436 a (a is the radius of the circular membrane) from the outer edge. The frequency of the (0,2) mode is 2.295 times the frequency of the (0,1) mode. Like the (0,1) mode, the (0,2) mode is excited when the membrane is struck at the center. The sound radiation characteristics of the (0,2) mode are more complicated than the first three modes -- it appears to be a mix between a monopole and a dipole. Its decay time is longer than the (0,1) mode, but shorter than the (1,1) mode. As a result, it contributes to the "thump" sound when a drum is hit at the center, but does not contribute much to the musical pitch of a drum when hit off center.

The (1,2) Mode

The (1,2) mode has one nodal diameter and two nodal circles. The frequency of the (1,2) mode is 2.917 times the frequency of the (0,1) mode. As you might expect after looking at the first several modes of the circular membrane, the (1,2) mode does not radiate sound very effectively. It has somewhat of a quadrupole type behavior. Thus, the (1,2) mode takes a relatively long time to decay. However, this mode doesn't seem to play a dominant role in the musical tone quality of a drum.

The (0,3) Mode

The (0,3) mode, shown at right has three circular nodes, but no diameter nodes. The frequency of the (0,3) mode is 3.598 times the frequency of the (0,1) mode. Like the (0,1) and (0,2) modes, the (0,3) mode is excited when the membrane is struck at the center. The sound radiation characteristics of the (0,3) mode are rather complicated. This mode is excited when the membrane is struck at the center, and it dies away fairly quickly. As a result, it contributes to the "thump" sound when a drum is hit at the center, but does not contribute much to the musical pitch of a drum when hit off center.


Note that none of the modal frequencies consist of multiples of the fundamental, and thus do not constitute a harmonic series.

 



If this true, how do timpani produce musical pitch?

The science behind how timpani produce sounds which constitute musical pitch
has been a fascination of scientists and physicists for well over a century.

Remember the definition of an ideal circular membrane; a absolutely round membrane, infinitely thin, perfectly flexible, completely homogeneous, evenly and uniformly tensioned where the outer circular edge of the membrane constitutes a fixed boundary condition in an "in vacuo" state (in a vacuum).

Well, the fact that a timpano head cannot conform exactly to and ideal membrane may actually help the drum produce musical pitch. Factors such as the thickness and stiffness of the head alter some of the higher partials helping coax the head into vibrating with near harmonic relationships which in a sense "fine tune" the drum.

Probably the most important contributing factor however, is air. A timpano head vibrates in an ocean of air both inside of the bowl and outside of the bowl. The air mass outside of bowl significantly lowers the frequency of the principal mode and the resonance of the air enclosed in the bowl interacts with other modes. All of this air working against the head is called "air loading" or simply "loading" which is believed to be the main contributing factor in coaxing the drum into having a "near" harmonic series. Together, the air inside and outside of the bowl and the head work together to create a single vibrating system.

Let's now take a look at some of the studies.


Studies on the Acoustic Properties of Timpani

Lord Rayleigh's (John William Strut) seminal work
The Theory of Sound (1877)/(2d ed. 1894)
showed:


By modifying or introducing certain design features, one can emphasize particular overtones, and even alter them completely. A carefully tuned timpano can have a strong principal note, as well as two or more harmonic overtones, including a perfect fifth, major seventh, and an octave . These overtones come from the (2,1),(3,1), and (1,2) modes respectively. Furthermore, recent measurements indicate the modes (1,1), (4,1) and (5,1) have ratios 1, 2.44, and 2.9 respectively. Both of these represent frequencies within a semitone, from the ratios 2.5 and 3, respectively. Thus the first five nodal diameters (0,1),(1,1),(2,1),(3,1), and (4,1) give the timpani the frequency profile of 1:2:3:4:5:6 -- yielding a strong sense of pitch. Timpani employ several features which alter the overtones of an ideal circular membrane.

The largest factor for the "correction" of the overtones into a close approximation of a harmonic series stems from the mass of the air against which the membrane vibrates. A drum's bowl (kettle) features a large surface area and thus interacts with a large volume of air. This air mass serves to lower the frequencies of the principle modes of vibration. The shape of the drum's large conical shell exhibits resonance properties of its own. Modes with similar shapes interact and reinforce each other through the medium of the air trapped inside it the bowl. The stiffness of the air in the kettle raises the frequencies of higher overtones. All of the above properties shift or coax the partials (overtones) and result in a close approximation of a harmonic series (from which we are able to discern a pitch).


Taking into consideration that Lord Rayleigh did not have modern laboratory equipment to work with and the fact that the "English" timpani of his day were less than desirable, it is nothing less than remarkable that his results were what they were. In fact, they may have been different if he had used timpani of quality. Benade in his book Fundamentals of Musical Acoustics relates that in personal correspondence with P. R. Kirby, Kirby stated that the drums used in Lord Rayleigh's experiments were second hand and not properly tuned. Perhaps this accounts for the interval of a major seventh in his analysis.


Thomas D. Rossing/Garry Kvistad 1976
Northern Illinois University
Ludwig Professional Symphonic Suspended Bowls
(plastic Weathermaster™ -750db heads)


Information and charts courtesy of Georgia State University
HyperPhysics

The Preferred Timpani Modes

Assuming that these selected modes are excited, the relative frequencies and intervals in cents are given compared to the 1,1-mode. The preferred vibrational modes for timpani are a subset of the modes of a circular membrane.

The interval values in cents here are calculated from the mode frequencies given by Berg & Stork. They can be compared to equal tempered intervals. The actual sounding frequencies are affected by air damping.

 

From; Benade, Arthur H., Fundamentals of Musical Acoustics, Oxford University Press, 1976
Ch 9, p143-144. Measured timpani of Cloyd Duff of the Cleveland Orchestra in 1973
(Duff owned Dresdner Apparatebau Anheier/Jaehne & Boruvka timpani)

Sounding Frequencies of Timpani

The timpani sound involves the vibrational modes of a circular membrane, but the technique of playing specifically excites the preferred modes of the membrane. These are further affected by air damping, which finally leads you to the set of frequencies which are actually produced by the instrument. An actual set of frequencies is reported by Benade for an instrument which is tuned to C3 (130.8 Hz).
Mode
Theoretical
Ratio
Measured
Ratio
P
1.00
1.00
(130.8 Hz)
Q
1.35
1.504
R
1.67
1.742
S
1.99
2.00
T
2.30
2.245
U
2.61
2.494
V
...
2.800
W
...
2.852
X
...
2.979
Y
...
3.462

It is remarkable that the tones actually produced include the musical intervals of a fifth and octave above the principal tone (P, Q, S). Also note that with respect to C2 (65.4 Hz) the resonances form a harmonic sequence up to the 7th harmonic (P=2, Q=3, S=4, U=5, X=5.96, Y=6.92).

The missing fundamental effect might then give you the pitch C2 for the instrument under certain conditions and dynamic levels.




THE BOTTOM LINE ON WHICH ALL
STUDIES SEEM TO AGREE:

* The mass of the air contained inside the bowl lowers the frequencies of the diametric modes [(1,1), (2,1), (3,1), etc.].

* The stiffness of the air contained inside the bowl raises the frequencies of the concentric modes [(0,1), (0,2), (0,3), etc.].

* The concentric modes damp out quickly and do not contribute greatly to the timbre of the drum.

* The preferred timpani modes are [(1,1), (2,1), (3,1), (4,1), (5,1), (6,1)]

* The principal tone is derived primarily from mode (1,1)

* The preferred modes produce frequencies nearly in the ratios 1 : 1.5 : 2 : 2.5, though a "missing fundamental'' is not generally perceived.

* The air inside and outside of the bowl and the head make up a single system, the two parts of which are of equal importance in determining the frequencies and overall vibrational shapes which define the pitch of the instrument.

All of the above properties shift or coax the partials (overtones) and result in a close approximation of a harmonic series (from which we are able to discern a pitch).




But what about that missing fundamental?

Why do timpani still sound low, or do they?




The Missing Fundamental Effect

The subjective tones (combination and difference tones) which are produced by the beating of the various harmonics of the sound of a musical instrument help to reinforce the pitch of the fundamental frequency. Most musical instruments produce a fundamental frequency plus several higher tones which are whole-number multiples of the fundamental. The beat frequencies between the successive harmonics constitute subjective tones which are at the same frequency as the fundamental and therefore reinforce the sense of pitch of the fundamental note being played. If the lower harmonics are not produced you still hear the tone as having the pitch of the nonexistent fundamental because of the presence of these beat frequencies. This is called the missing fundamental effect. It plays an important role in sound by preserving the sense of pitch (including the perception of melody) when sound loses some of its lower frequencies.



The Missing Fundamental
Courtesy of Dr. William Robertson

This demonstration explores the relation between the frequency content of a musical note and the pitch perceived by listeners. Musical notes are complex tones consisting of a fundamental frequency and higher harmonics (known as partials) that are integral multiples of the fundamental frequency. The particular mix of partials is part (but only part!) of what gives different musical instruments their individual character. The pitch of the note is related to the fundamental frequency of the complex tone. However, the pitch of the note remains unchanged even if this fundamental frequency is removed.

The above sound file consists of a complex tone made up of a fundamental and nine higher harmonics. The first tone heard has all the frequencies; the second tone has the fundamental removed but maintains all of the higher harmonics. Each successive tone sequentially removes the lowest harmonic. Notice that although the character of each note changes, the pitch remains the same.




So, how do you make your timpani sound like musical instruments if they don't vibrate with a harmonic series?

How do you get timpani to blend with other instruments?

How do you achieve this"correction of the overtones into a close approximation of a harmonic series" as Lord Rayleigh prescribes while clearing heads on timpani or, as I like to refer to it, "tempering" the timpani?

Are we able to hear the missing fundamental?




Start by eliminating as many variables as possible. The following ingredients are essential for good timpani tone.

1) The timpano bowl should be free of large dents and must be in-round.
2) The lip of the bowl (the bearing edge) must be smooth, level and free of any nicks, dents and imperfections and create an air tight seal between the bowl and head.
3) The counterhoop must be flush and in-round.
4) The head must be centered in the counterhoop.
5) The head must be true, free of dirt and defects and be centered on the drum.
6) The mechanics of the timpano must be functioning so that a uniform or equal tension can be maintained at all lug points throughout the range of the drum.
7) The proper *MSR for the size of the drum must set. (this varies greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer)

Assuming all of the above exist you can proceed to tempering or clearing the drum.

* MSR refers to the to the Manufacturers Suggested Range for size of the drum when the pedal is in the heel down/toe down positions. If the MSR is not correctly set, the balanced action mechanism may not function properly and may impede the range for the timpano. Please check the manual which came with your timpani for the suggested range for each drum. Early American models of timpani featuring the balanced action mechanism tend to have less range than later European models.

The concept of the BAM ( balanced action mechanism) is relatively simple; a pedal is placed mechanically in between a spring and the timpani head - when the tension of the spring is matched to the tension of the head, the pedal is balanced and the pitch of the drum will stay where you set it.

Nomenclature of a Yamaha Timpano
courtesy of the Yamaha Corporation


Part II:

Tempering & Adjustment of a Mylar Timpani Head
Which is Already Mounted on a "Balanced Action" Drum

or

Finding the Missing Fundamental


Climate Change and Timpani...huh?

For timpani to produce a true pitch, one that is clear (rich with near harmonic overtones), well-defined, and a pitch that will project, the instruments must be adjusted or tempered properly. I use the term temper which means to adjust. You may also hear or use the terms clear or balance when working with timpani heads. These terms refer to the process of adjusting each tension lug until the pitch at each tension lug point is uniform and consistent and the drum has a long sustained principal tone, and is rich in near harmonic overtones. When the instrument's heads are clear or tempered, the instrument is easier to tune, blends better with the ensemble and is much easier to play. You will be able to produce a pure and focused pitch as well as a beautifully sustained principal tone throughout the range of each drum. The strong near harmonic overtones produced will not compete with those of your colleagues, but rather compliment them.

This process should be done routinely, but only when necessary. The mishandling of timpani when moving the instruments from one location to another is often blamed for why timpani sound bad when in fact it could be simply a change in climatic conditions, especially atmospheric pressure. I'll bet you never thought that climate change had anything to do with timpani with plastic heads, well it does. A very important component to the sound of timpani is air, especially the equalization of the air inside the drum (both temperature and moisture content) to that of the air in the room. A very delicate dance between the air mass inside of the drum to the air mass outside of the drum contributes significantly to the perceived pitch of timpani. Even subtle changes in air temperature and/or barometric pressure can affect the perceived pitch. It is a well established fact that atmospheric changes (especially humidity) can affect timpani with calf heads and it is true that mylar heads are not affected by atmospheric change but, the irony is that these plastic heads don't "breath" like calf heads do and actually impede the exchange of air between the inside and outside of the bowl. This is good for the most part however, it does contribute to a slower exchange of air between the inside and the outside of the bowl which is critical when differing air masses need to be equalized.

The worst thing you can do is start to clear or temper you heads after the drums have been moved from one location to another with differing conditions, e.g. a dry air conditioned room to a warm/hot humid outdoor venue or a cold storage room to a warm stage. The best thing to do in this type of situation is to just let the drums sit for forty-five minutes to an hour and acclimate to the new environment. Playing on them won't hurt them and it will actually help equalize the air mass in the bowl with the outer air, but it will play tricks with your ears. When moving percussion equipment, I always move the timpani first.

If a drum is sounding good and has a long sustained principal tone with clear near harmonic overtones present at each tuning lug, leave it alone. In general, I like to clear the heads on my drums after a rehearsal rather than before giving them time to settle a bit so they will be ready for me the next time I need to play them. Don't be afraid...just do a little bit at a time and try to do a little bit every time you play the drums if possible and only if needed.

Just remember that there is no magic bullet or perfect tool that will do this this for you. At best, the results will always be a compromise since timpani do not vibrate with a natural harmonic series as do all other standard orchestral instruments, but with good tempering you will hear clear near harmonic overtones and a strong principal tone at all dynamic levels throughout the range of the drums. When the drums are well-tempered, the illusive "missing fundamental" can be found.


N.B.: Before beginning this process, make sure that the drums are acclimated to the environment, the room is quiet and between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and no air is circulating directly above the drums.

1. Clean the surface of the head thoroughly with a non-caustic glass and surface cleaner to remove any salt, dirt or grease which may have accumulated, and which can keep the head from vibrating evenly. If the head shows any dryness or damage from indirect sunlight or heat, evenly apply liberal amounts of a vinyl protector such as Armor All®; let it set for at least ten minutes, then work the protectant into the head evenly, and then wipe off any excess. It is best to do this after you have completed the tempering process. The vinyl protector will help restore some of the natural elasticity in the head. It is a good idea to apply this to the heads routinely. The heads come from the factory with a film coating on them but it dissipates over time. Be sure that the protector has been worked well into the head and that no excessive residue remains.

For balanced action timpani (Ludwig, Yamaha, Adams, Ajax, Majestic etc.), set the foot pedal all the way back to the floor with the heel of your foot. This will remove the head tension and should place the drum near the low end of the MSR.

Center the head & check for a uniform collar.

The head can become off-centered simply by moving the drum improperly. If the head is not centered, loosen each lug the same amount and center the head on the drum. Measure the distance from the lip of the bowl to the counterhoop at four points on the drum (north, south, east and west) making sure that they are exactly the same. With a felt tipped pen, place a small mark on the head directly where the at the lip touches the bowl at these four points (NSEW). Use these marks as reference points to make sure that the head is always centered. It is best to place these reference marks on the head before it is mounted on the drum in which case you would simply measure the diameter of the drum at two adjacent points at the lip and then the diameter of the head. You then find the difference of these two measurements and then divide that number by two. Use this measurement and mark on the head at four points (NSEW) measuring from the very edge of the head inward towards the center. When you mount the head, center the head on the drum making sure that the NSEW marks are right at the lip. For more information on this process, please see my article on mounting mylar/plastic heads.

If the head is not centered, the drum cannot be tempered properly and will never be able to create a desirable overtone series throughout the range of the drum. This crucial step, which is often overlooked, is easily fixed and "makes or breaks" the overall sound of the drum. This process defines the actual fundamental (mode 0,1) frequency of the drum, a frequency which is not heard as being the actual pitch of the drum yet it has a strong influence on the preferred modes that do. The actual principal tone or what we perceive as the pitch of the drum is determined primarily by mode (1,1).


diagram courtesy of the Yamaha Corporation

Return the lugs to the low note position of the MSR (the lowest and highest pitch at which you want the instrument to sound) once the head is centered.


2.
Observing the MSR, decide the lowest pitch at which you want the instrument to sound. The lowest note chosen can also affect the available "highest" note on the drum and the efficiency of the balanced action mechanism so please check the manual which came with your timpani for the suggested range for each drum. Some American models of timpani featuring the balanced action mechanism tend to have less range than some later European models which advertise an octave range. The overall range may be affected by the type of heads you are using. Some manufacturers heads purportedly have a narrower range than other manufacturers which may limit the range of the timpani suggested by the manufacturer. Please check the manual for any head specifications.

Sample MSR pitches for various timpani are:

32" drum - D, 29" drum - F, 26" drum-B-flat, 23" drum-D



Other Manufacturers Recommend

The size of the drum is generally determined by the diameter of the bowl, not by the diameter of the head or the counterhoop. To determine the size of the bowl, measure the lip of the bowl (the bearing edge) at opposing tension lug points.

The size of the head is determined by the counterhoop. Some timpani manufacturers use non-standard counterhoop sizes. Be sure to consult the owner's manual for the correct size of heads needed for your instruments before ordering replacement heads.


3.
Using a tuning key, "scratch" tune the timpano head (following the cross-tuning sequence-see below) to the desired low note of the MSR. Do not use the pedal. If the pedal will not stay down (won't hold the low pitch), loosen the tension spring. (Please see individual manufacturers manual for the location of the spring tension adjustment.)

Place your fingertips, or a soft object like a wallet or a timpani mute, in the center of the drum head to deaden the sound. Tap the head in the normal striking position (about one to two inches out from each tension lug) with a medium hard stick and check the pitch. (I usually just place the fingertips of my left hand in the center of the head and tap with the fingers of my right hand.) At this point you will probably notice some difference in the pitch as you go from lug to lug. Get the pitch at each lug as close as you can by ear the best you can. Don't spend too much time trying to get the pitch exact, just get it as close as you can.


4.
Leveling the head. If the counterhoop is flush or level you can use a product like the TAP™ Head Gauge (ca. $20.00) to get the head somewhat balanced with relative tension at each lug, a process called leveling. This process will get you in the ballpark but only works well if the counterhoop is flush. If the counterhoop is not flush, sometimes this process does more harm than good, in which case the counterhoop needs to be fixed or replaced. If you know the counterhoop is not flush, avoid this process and go on to the next step and hope for the best.

 

Make sure that the drum itself is level and pick a point at which to begin. Position the block on the head so that the pointer (set screw and cap-nut) is centered in the middle of the counterhoop directly in front of a lug. Adjust the pointer so the cap-nut barely touches the rim and lock it in place with the wing-nut. Following the cross-tuning sequence below, place the gauge on the head and adjust each lug until you do not see any daylight between the block and the head.

MAKE ADJUSTMENTS IN SMALL INCREMENTS ONLY. Repeat this process until all lugs have been leveled. ALWAYS make sure you keep the drum within its MSR.


LEVEL


 


NOT LEVEL


Move the pedal into mid playing range and strike the drum in the normal striking position with a medium hard stick a few times softly and once loudly. Place your ear close to the head and listen for clarity of pitch and near harmonic overtones. The idea throughout the tempering process is to find the differences in pitch at each tension lug point and correct them until the pitches of the soft strokes and loud stroke match. More than likely the drum will still need more tempering. More often than not, after measuring equally at each tension rod, the pitch at each rod will be extremely different and the head will be completely out of tune. This is usually due to a counterhoop that is not flush. The maker of this product states that additional head clearing may be needed after initial leveling.


5.
Another device that can be very useful is a DrumDial™ or a Tama Tension Watch which precisely measures the tympanic pressure at each lug point. However useful these tools maybe, they are not a solution for fine tuning timpani. Since they don’t measure pitch (but only the timpanic pressure of the head at specific points) and since pressure doesn't’t determine pitch, these pressure readings are probably best used as a guide to get you in the general range of the drum’s optimum sound rather than a mechanism for fine tuning. If the head has been excessively stretched at any point (i.e. the playing area), the timpanic pressure readings may not be accurate. This device works best on new or lightly played heads. There are just too many variables involved with the way timpani work to rely solely on pressure readings for accurate pitch but these devices are very useful for getting you to that sometimes elusive "fine tuning zone" where you can begin to fine tune and temper your drum.



  • Place the drum so that it is in its lowest range, heel to the floor as before, making sure that the bottom note of the MSR for the size of the drum is correct and the pedal doesn't move (I can't stress this enough :-)
  • Start at any lug on the drum. Place the edge of the dial so that it is sitting on the bearing edge of the drum. Get a reading; the dial should be between 65-80 but don't worry if it is not.
  • Move the dial to the next adjacent lug. (The manufacturer does not recommend using the cross-tuning method.)
  • If you get a lug that is dramatically off, it is recommended that you move back one lug and recheck. Be aware, as you alter each lug it can affect lugs on adjacent sides.
  • Work your way around the entire drum at least two times until all the tension rods register the same number. It is not important what number it is, just as long as each is the same.
  • Once you've completed this, check the pitch of the drum to make sure it's correct (at the lowest pitch). If it is not, tighten or loosen the tension to get the pitch approximate and then repeat steps 1-5.
  • Take the drum into mid playing range and strike the drum in the normal striking position with a medium hard stick a few times softly and once loudly. The pitch should match with no flatting or sharping. If the tension at each lug is the same, and if the head is centered and true, and if the mechanism tensions evenly, then the drum should be starting to produce a strong principal tone and clear near harmonic overtones throughout its range.

The DrumDial™ and the Tama Tension Watch work very well and do accurately measure the timpanic pressure, but the pitch clarity of your drum may not be100% accurate. Although it works much more consistently than most measuring devices, it can sometimes produce an unclear head. After adjusting the head tension (or timpanic pressure) at each tension rod to a point where the gauge indicates the tension to be exactly the same, the sound and clarity of pitch may still be false. If the DrumDial™ or the Tama Tension Watch produce unsatisfactory results, you may have a head that is excessively stretched at some point, or, have a false head and/or tolerance issues with the drum itself. They work best on new, non-coated heads or smooth heads. Coated heads may not be the same thickness at each measuring point yielding slight variations in measurements even though the tension may be the same.


6.
If the DrumDial™ or the Tama Tension Watch produce satisfactory results, then you should be able to refine the pitch and fine tune your timpani with an electronic tuner. Using electronic tuners to temper or tune timpani can be problematic due to the fact that most tuners require a sustained or periodic tone for optimum functionality. Since the principal tone decays more rapidly than other overtones or partials, electronic tuners can easily register the pitch of second partial (mode2,1) rather than the pitch of the principal tone (mode 1,1,) unless the principal tone is strong. Furthermore, the perceived principal tone can best be described as the second partial of a "harmonic series" with a missing fundamental and can cause some electronic tuners to try and register the pitch an octave lower than the actual pitch of the principal tone slowing the display time. Needless to say, finding a tuner which works well with timpani is paramount if you want to use this method.

I use an electronic tuner to measure and adjust the pitch of the principal tone (mode 1,1) at each tension lug. I have found that an inexpensive tuner such as the Korg CA-20 (ca. $15.00) works very well for this process and saves my ear from fatiguing so quickly. The tuner is also able to register very low frequencies which are difficult for me to even discern as a pitch. I focus on the pitch of the principal tone only, not the overtones or partials. The tuner needs to respond to the sound quickly, so make sure that the tuner has a "fast" mode or that it will respond immediately to low frequencies. If the tuner will not respond quickly to low frequencies, this process will not work and may produce an inferior result.


The objective with this step is to to unify vibrating mode (1,1) which is the frequency from which the perceived pitch of the instrument is defined. This can be accomplished by exciting the lowest frequency possible on the drum, which is generally the lowest note of the MSR on a balanced action drum. (If your drum has a master tuning screw, loosen the tension on the head to the threshold of pitch.) If the pitch of the principal tone [mode (1,1)] at each lug point matches, a near harmonic series can be created using virtual pitch (difference tones) and the air baffling/dampening process of the bowl (explained in Part I), creating a clear tone and well-defined pitch throughout the entire range of the drum.

In order to get the principal tone to speak clearly, I use a relatively large and heavy mallet covered with a very soft felt. A hard or light mallet will not produce a strong principal tone. It is a good idea to experiment with different mallets until you get a solid reading on the meter. If at all possible, it is best do do this process in a completely quiet room .

  • Place the pedal of the drum so that it is in the lowest range for its MSR, heel to the floor as before, and that the pedal doesn't move.
  • Mute the other timpani so there will be no interference from sympathetic vibrations.
  • Start at lug no. 1 (usually close to the playing spot). Make sure that the head is not vibrating. Place the microphone close to the normal striking spot, gently strike the drum once and read what is on the meter.
  • The pitch reading should correspond with or be close to the desired lowest note of the MSR. If the pitch is sharp, ever so gently press on the center of the head. If the pitch is flat, adjust each tension lug "up" ever so slightly in the pattern prescribed above. Re-strike the drum and check the meter again. Repeat this process until the needle on the meter corresponds with the desired lowest of the MSR of the drum.
  • Using the "cross-tuning" pattern, work in channels (see figure 1). Check and adjust each lug until all match or are as close to the lowest note of the MSR as possible. Be sure to dampen the drum before striking each time.
  • Make adjustments in small increments only and try to adjust the pitch "up" (sharpen) rather than "down" (flatten).
  • Always work with opposing lugs to temper that particular set of diametric lugs. If the meter is slow to center but then shows the correct pitch, check the opposing lug and make adjustments there first as it will generally be the culprit. Work back and forth on opposing lugs in a mode. Be sure to get both lugs in a mode "zeroed" or balanced pitch-wise before moving to the next set of diametric lugs.Work around the drum with the cross-tuning pattern until all lugs exhibit an exact or very close pitch reading. Focus on the primary channel since that is where your primary playing spot will be.
  • Once all of the lugs match in pitch, take the drum into mid playing range and strike the drum in the normal striking position with a medium hard stick a few times softly and once loudly. Listen for the pitch of the soft strokes and loud stroke; they should match. If they are not, play on the drum for a short time and then take the drum down to the desired lowest note for the MSR and repeat the process. Be patient, it may take a few times.
  • When you get the drum to the point where the soft strokes and the loud strokes sound the same, strike the drum at various dynamic levels. Listen for the clarity and sustain of the principal tone. You should hear a strong, sustained principal tone as well as several near harmonic overtones, Essentially it will be the second partial, the third partial (sometimes the fourth) and the fifth partial of a harmonic series based on the missing fundamental of the principal tone. Depending on the type of head, you can occasionally hear near harmonic overtones up to the 7th partial.


courtesy of Michael Rosen PN47-06-97


7.
Since the nature of playing timpani is to strike the instruments, the clear tone and "well-defined pitch" garnered by the process above will be but a transient event as the drum will gradually loose the temperament. Again, don't be afraid to try, just do a little bit at a time and do it a little bit every day if possible. Practice tempering your timpani regularly as you would any other technical skill.

This process will to go slowly the first few time you attempt it.
However, as you practice doing this it will get easier and faster.



8.
If the procedures outlined above fail to produce less than satisfactory results, then one or more of the following is probably true and your instrument needs professional attention.

  • The bowl is not in-round.
  • The lip of the bowl (bearing edge) is not smooth, level and free of any nicks, dents and imperfections, so it is not creating an air-tight seal between the bowl and head.
  • The counterhoop is not flush and in-round.
  • The head is not centered in the counterhoop.
  • The head is not true and perhaps is defective or worn out.
  • The mechanics of the timpani are not functioning properly so that a uniform or equal tension cannot be maintained at all lug points.
  • The proper range (MSR) for the size of the drum are not correct.

In a Nutshell

A Quick Guide to Tempering Timpani

  • 1) Clean and condition the head.
  • 2) Take the drum to its lowest threshold of pitch where each tension rod has no play.
  • 3) Center the head in the counterhoop and on the bowl.
  • 4) Use the DrumDial™ to adjust the tension evenly at each tension lug point on the drum.
  • 5) Using cross-tuning, temper each pair of opposing tension lugs to the same pitch with an electronic tuner to unify vibrating mode (1,1) which is the frequency from which the perceived pitch of the instrument is defined.
  • 6) Focus on your primary channel to get each pair of tension lugs exact or as close as possible. The secondary is very important but if pitch deviations must occur, they will be less noticeable there.
  • 7) Take the drum into playing range and play on it for a minute or two.
  • 8) Repeat steps five through seven until the pitch centers and soft strokes and loud strokes sound the same.

Some General Timpani Do's and Don'ts

  • DO keep your mylar/plastic heads clean and covered with a high-quality head protector.
  • DO keep your timpani covered with drop covers.
  • DO keep your timpani out of direct sunlight and away from heating and cooling vents.
  • DO apply a vinyl protectant to the heads periodically to help retain elasticity in the head.
  • DO try to temper your heads a little bit EVERY DAY.
  • DO temper your timpani in a COMPLETELY quiet environment.
  • Do keep your timpani in a climate-controlled environment.
  • DO temper your timpani after each move (if needed), but only after playing on them for at least forty-five minutes.
  • DO teach your students how to temper timpani heads.
  • DO encourage your students help keep the timpani in proper working condition.
  • DO change your timpani heads on a regular basis.
  • DON'T ever use a heat gun on a new timpani head to remove wrinkles. Use a different head.
  • Don't use a heat gun to remove dents while the head is mounted on the drum. Remove the head from the drum and use GENTLE and EVEN heat only. Extreme and uneven heat WILL quickly render the head unusable.
  • Don't think of tempering timpani as something you do on special occasions only. It is an ongoing process.
  • DON'T try to temper timpani in a noisy environment or for more than ten or fifteen minutes at a time.
  • DON'T try to temper timpani immediately after moving them into a new environment.
  • DON'T store timpani in an environment with drastic fluctuations in temperature.
  • DON'T move your timpani to the performance venue directly before the performance or dress rehearsal and expect them to sound good.
  • DON'T ever move or pick up your timpani by the counterhoop. Use the struts or frame.
  • DON'T ever use your timpani as tables.

Online References

HyperPhysics, Georgia State University
Dr. Dan Russell, Kettering University
Dr. William Robertson, Middle Tennessee State University.
Dr. Reginald Bain, University of South Carolina


 

Other Timpani Links

Yamaha Corporation
TAP™ Head Gauge
DrumDial


Mike Crusoe, Principal Timpanist, Seattle Symphony Orchestra
Jean-Etienne Ottenhof
Guido Rueckel, Principal Timpanist with the Munich Philharmonic Orchestra
John Tafoya, Principal Timpanist with the National Symphony Orchestra, Washington D.C.
Dwight Thomas, Principal Timpanist with the Omaha Symphony Orchestra
Nick Woud, Timpanist, Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra


Timpani picture album featuring antique instruments
The making of a timpani stick
A tribute to famous timpanists

 

Timpani Bibliography


Timpani Acoustics And Construction

Anderson one, Craig. The acoustics of timpani: An analysis of vibrating circular membranes. Northern Illinois University (Hg). Dekalb: (unpublished Thesis), 1978.

Benvenga, Nancy. "Timpani and the timpanist's art: Musical and technical development in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries." Ph.D. diss. (Musicology), Goteborg, Sweden: Goteborg University, 1979. Later published by Goteborg University, Dept. of Musicology, 1979, Studies from Goteborg University, Dept. of Musicology: 3.

Bertsch, Matthias. Vibration patterns and sound analysis of the Viennese Timpani. Vibration patterns and sound analysis of the Viennese Timpani. Stanzial, Domenico (Hg). Stanzial, Domenico (Hg). in: Proceedings of ISMA '2001 (International Symposium on Musical Acoustics). In: Proceedings of'2001 ISMA (International Symposium on Musical Acoustics). 2 Jg. Perugia: Musical and Architectural Acoustics Lab. 2 born in Perugia: Musical and Architectural Acoustics Lab. FSSG-CNR Venezia, 2001. FSSG Venezia-CNR, 2001. S.281-284. - IWK Aufstellung: IWK-Bibliothek (siehe Abstract in der IWK Literaturdatenbank) [IWK-Lit.Nr.: 6122] S.281-284.

Bowles, Edmund A. "Nineteenth-century innovations in the use and construction of the timpani." Journal of the American Musical Instrument Society Vol. 5-6 (1979-1980): 74-143. Reprinted in Percussionist [Percussive Notes Research Edition] 19/2 (March 1982): 6-75

Christian, Richard S.; Davis, Robert E.; Tubis, Arnold; Anderson one, Craig E.; Mills, Ronald Ith Rossing, Thomas's D. Effects OF air loading on timpani diaphragm vibration. Acoustical Society OF America (Hg). in: Journal OF the Acoustical Society OF America (JASA). 76 Jg. No. 5. Woodbury, NY: 1984. S.1336-1345.

Davis, Robert Eugene. "Mathematical modeling of the orchestral timpani." Ph.D. dissertation. West Lafayette, IN: Purdue University, 1988. Dissertation Abstracts no. 49/09B, p. 3809. University Microfilms International order no. MDW88-25522.

Power, Andrew. "Sound production of the timpani." Percussive Notes Part I: 21/4 (April 1983): 62-64; Part II: 21/5 (July 1983): 65-67

Rossing, Thomas D. "The physics of kettledrums." Scientific American 247/16 (November 1982): 172-178

Rhaouti, Leila; Chaigne, Antoine; Joly, Patrick. time domain modeling and numerical simulation of A kettledrum. Acoustical Society of America (Hg). in: Journal OF the Acoustical Society of America (JASA). 105 Jg. No. 6. Woodbury, NY: ASP, 1999. Publication: Mannheim: by the author, 1996.

Rossing, Thomas's D. The Physics OF Kettledrums. in: SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN. No. 247:16. 1982. S.172-178.

Rossing, Thomas D., Craig A. Anderson, and Ronald I. Mills. "Acoustics of timpani." Percussionist [Percussive Notes Research Edition] 19/3 (Fall 1982): 18-31

Rossing, Thomas D., and Garry Kvistad. "Acoustics of timpani: Preliminary studies." Percussionist 13/3 (Spring 1976): 90-98

Sullivan, Donald L. Accurate frequency tracking OF timpani spectral LINEs. Acoustical Society OF America (Hg). in: Journal OF the Acoustical Society OF America (JASA). 101 Jg. No. 1. Woodbury, NY: 1997. S.530-538.

Taylor, Henry W. The Art and Science of the Timpani. London: John Baker, 1964

Tobischek, Herbert. Die Pauke: Ihre spiel- und bautechnische Entwicklung in der Neuzeit. [The Timpani: Its Technical and Structural Development in the Modern Era.] Tutzing, Germany: Hans Schneider, 1977

Tronchin, Lamberto. Modal analysis and intensity OF acoustic radiation OF the kettledrum. in: Journal OF the Acoustical Society OF America (JASA). 117 Jg. No. 1. Woodbury, NY: 2005. S.926-933. - IWK list: IWK library signature: Percussion instruments 020 [IWK Lit.Nr.: 7918]

Tubis, Arnold; Christian Richard S. Mathematical of studies of air diaphragm vibration with application ton the kettledrum. Acoustical Society OF America (Hg). in: JASA Suppl. 1. 67 Jg. Woodbury, NY: 1980. S.85.


Timpani Repair And Maintenance

BOOKS

Bonfoey, Mark P. Percussion Repair and Maintenance: A Performer's Technical Manual. Miami, Fl. : Belwin-Mills, 1986. [Timpani maintenance is covered on pages 6-21.]

Brown, Ed. Band Directors Percussion Repair Manual. Sagle, ID : Ed Brown, 1995. [Timpani repair is covered on pages 59-64.]

ARTICLES

Britton, Mervin. "Fear not the kettle drum." The Instrumentalist 22/11 (June 1968): 64-66 [Instructions for the care and maintenance of pedal timpani.]

Davenport, David. "The art of tempering the kettledrum." Percussive Notes 19/2 (Winter 1981): 62-64

Goodman, Saul. "Hints on care and use of tympani." The Instrumentalist 7/6 (May-June 1953): 38-39, 49

Kogan, Peter. "Changing timpani heads: How the professionals do it, part 2 -- focus on repair." Percussive Notes 31/1 (October 1992): 53-55

Light, Marshall. "Yes, there is a guide to maintenance of traditional Dresden style timpani." Percussive Notes 27/3 (Spring 1989): 9-13

Stotz, Brian. "Timpani repair and discussion forum." Percussive Notes 33/3 (June 1995): 68 [Focuses on tuning and mounting plastic timpani heads.]

Wilmering, Kevin, and Laura Jamison Arthurs. "Timpani maintenance." Modern Percussionist 2/1 (December 1985-February 1986): 52-53 [Focuses on the bearing edge of the drum rim and how to identify problems.]

*Note: There are several separate articles dealing with care and maintenance of calf timpani heads.


Timpani History and Development

Averignos, Gerassimos. Lexikon der Pauke. Frankfurt am Main: Das Musikinstrument, 1964

Benvenga, Nancy. Timpani and the Timpanist's Art: Musical and Technical Evolution in the 19th and 20th Centuries. Göteborg, Sweden: Gothenburg University, 1979. Studies from Göteborg University, Dept. of Musicology: 3.

Blades, James. Percussion Instruments and Their History. Westport, CT: Bold Strummer, 1992 revised edition

Blades, James. "Timpani." In: The New Grove Dictionary of Musical Instruments. London: Macmillan, 1984. Vol. 3, pp. 586-597

Blades, James, and Jeremy Montagu. Early Percussion Instruments from the Middle Ages to the Baroque. London: Oxford University Press, 1976. Early Music series: 2.

Bowles, Edmund A. "The double, double, double beat of the thundering drum: The timpani in early music." Early Music 19/3 (August 1991): 419-435

Bowles, Edmund A. "The kettledrum." In: Encyclopedia of Percussion, edited by John H. Beck. New York: Garland, 1995. pp. 201-226. Abstract: Presents a short history of the timpani from ca. 1500 onward as well as a detailed discussion of the various types of 19th- and early-20th-c. machine drums and their construction. Also included is an overview of the evolution of the size and shape of instruments, their skins, and sticks and their coverings (wood, leather, flannel, sponge, felt). An appendix lists milestones in the music for kettledrums with information on date, title, composer, and drum scoring (number of drums and their sizes, tunings, types of mallets, solo passages). (author)

Bowles, Edmund A. "Nineteenth-century innovations in the use and construction of the timpani." Journal of the American Musical Instrument Society Vol. 5-6 (1979-1980): 74-143. Reprinted in Percussionist [Percussive Notes Research Edition] 19/2 (March 1982): 6-75

Bowles, Edmund A. Timpani : A History in Pictures and Documents. Stuyvesant: Pendragon Press ©2002 28 cm.; 570 p. Edition ISBN: 0945193858

Kirby, Percival Robson. The Kettledrums: A Book for Composers, Conductors, and Kettledrummers. London: Oxford University Press, 1930

Montagu, Jeremy Timpani & Percussion. Yale Musical Instruments Series
New Haven & London, Yale University Press. 2002, XII, 268 pp. (ISBN: 0300095007)

Tabourot. Historic Percussion--A Survey. Austin, TX: Tactus Press, 1994

Tabourot. Royall Drummes & Martiall Musick. Austin, TX: Tactus Press, 1993.

Taylor, Henry W. The Art and Science of the Timpani. London: John Baker, 1964

Tobischek, Herbert. Die Pauke: Ihre spiel- und bautechnische Entwicklung in der Neuzeit. [The Timpani: Its Technical and Structural Development in the Modern Era.] Tutzing, Germany: Hans Schneider, 1977

 

©2005 Timpani Analytic International TAI
All Rights Reserved

Please send comments to:
rkj@nebrwesleyan.edu

Last updated 9/24/06

 

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